This past weekend, a few friends and I did a little road trip from Phoenix up to Horseshoe Bend. It’s about a 4.5 hour drive from Phoenix, it’s completely doable in a long weekend, and the scenery will not disappoint.
We left Phoenix in the afternoon and arrived in Lees Ferry just before dark. We stayed at the Lee’s Ferry Lodge for 2 nights. Lee’s Ferry is about 45 minutes from Page and is a better location than Page specifically for paddling Horseshoe Bend because it’s only 10 minutes from the launch at Lee’s Ferry.
Lodging
There were 4 of us and due to reservations being limited, the first night we were in the Hopi House, and the second night we were in Room 11. The Hopi House was like a little apartment – 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms plus a living room and kitchen area. Plenty of space, but technically there were only 3 beds (2 beds and a futon) so one person in our group had to sleep on the couch. Room 11 was smaller (no kitchen or living area) but had 2 bedrooms with 2 beds in each and one bathroom. Both rooms worked out great for our group of four.
Paddleboarding Horseshoe Bend
To paddleboard or kayak Horseshoe Bend, you first need to hire a ferry to backhaul you up the Colorado River. You start at Lee’s Ferry and then can choose to go all the way up to the Glen Canyon Dam, which is 15 miles, or they can also drop you around the 10 mile mark. The company we used was Kayak Horseshoe Bend and our boat driver was fantastic. We arrived about an hour before our scheduled ferry to ensure we had enough time to blow up our boards, use the restroom, etc. Our driver loaded our boards for us and then pointed out all the landmarks, campsites, and fun things along the way. She also told us how to wave for help should we need it (wave 2 arms above your head) and informed us that they go up and down the river most of the day in case we were to need anything, which was honestly more support than we expected to have. Also the drivers are seasonal employees and greatly appreciate tips, FYI. To go all the way to Glen Canyon Dam it takes about 45 minutes. They’ll give you a look at the dam itself, and then drop you off on a teeny tiny little sandy area and you’ll begin your paddling from there.
It’s worth noting that the Colorado River is cold. The dam releases water from the bottom of Lake Powell, which doesn’t see a lot of sunlight and the temperature is between 46-54 degrees fahrenheit all year long. We were told that the water was actually a bit warmer than normal during our trip, and I can assure you it was still very cold. We were also told that the water had a lot more silt in it than usual – our ferry driver told us that the water is normally crystal clear – but it was cloudy for us. We were not expecting it to be clear so it wasn’t an issue but I think it would be disappointing if we had been expecting that.
The river normally flows about 3 miles per hour, and it seemed to be even a bit faster than that at times during our trip. We had reserved an 8:30am ferry and we were dropped off by the ferry, near the dam, just before 9:30am. If you’re a camper, there are a few public camp sites along the river that are first come first serve. You can pack in your gear and stop and spend the night if you choose. There are also a few hikes you can do at various points but since it was summer when we went (end of July), and still 100+ degrees, we didn’t do any of the hikes.
The one stop we did make was at the Petroglyphs. It’s right after you float under the actual Horseshoe Bend overlook (and if you look up you can see all the people at the top that look like G.I. Joe figures). I believe Horseshoe Bend is at mile 10, and the petroglyphs are at mile 9 (where you start at the dam is mile 15). Depending on your expectations, the petroglyphs can be a bit underwhelming. It’s a short walk to see them, and they are fairly small, but it is cool to know that you’re looking at something that is 2,000 to 5,000 years old. It is a protected site so please be respectful and leave no trace.
Our ferry driver had told us that there are 6 wild horses that frequent the river, and we were fortunate enough to see 3 of them along the way. You’ll find them closer to the end of the trip (around mile 2 we were told), but they might be kind of far away. I just love seeing wild horses – they’re so majestic and free. There are also sheep that you can sometimes see, but we didn’t. There are plenty of shaded spots to stop and have lunch on your board and you can’t beat the view of the towering 1,000 foot sandstone red cliffs. It’s absolutely stunning.
Safety
We were told there was a $150 fine for not wearing your life jacket while on your board. While I don’t know if this is true, the National Park Service did patrol by us once and they came pretty close, possibly checking for life vests. Either way it’s smart to wear one, safety first.
Be sure to bring more water than you need. The recommendation is 1 gallon of water per person – remember, this is still the desert.
Park Passes/Access
Access into Lee’s Ferry – you need both a National Park Pass (or pay $30 for a day pass), and a free day pass that you get from a little stand on your way in. There was no one there to check our National Park Pass but we left it on our dashboard along with the free day pass and a note and we had no issues.
Food
For food on the river, we packed lots of frozen water bottles, electrolyte packets, uncrustables and snacks like string cheese, hummus, carrots, chomps, etc.
After a long day of being outdoors, I don’t know about you but I want a hot and hearty meal for dinner. The night that we arrived we ate at Marble Canyon (that’s the name of the restaurant) and I would give it a 5/10. My burger was ok, but the fries were basically cold. Nothing to write home about but it will do in a pinch.
The second night, we drove a few miles in the other direction and ate at Cliff Dwellers. This meal was so much better, I’d give it an 8.5/10. The BLT on sourdough and the chicken tenders both got rave reviews. I ordered the patty melt and it was decent – the burger patty itself was flavorful and the french fries were fresh, hot and delicious. We also noticed as we were leaving that the restaurant was full and seemed to be both locals and tourists eating there. Would definitely eat there again.
A few other things to note:
Time Zones: The Navajo Nation around Page, AZ does observe daylight savings time but the rest of Arizona does not. This means that half the year, AZ is on Mountain time and the other half we are the same as Pacific time, but the Navajo Nation is always on Mountain time. If your phone is set to automatically adjust to the time zone you’re in, it can be confusing because it will flip flop back and forth. The way to fix it is to go into your iPhone settings (Settings > General > Date & Time) then set the Time Zone to Phoenix and turn off the “Set Automatically” function. If you have an Android you’ll have to Google it but this will ensure you stay on the correct time so you’re not late for your ferry or anything else. Just remember to turn it back on after you leave!
Weather: While on the river, right as we were approaching Mile 0 and getting out, a storm rolled in. It was about 2:30 and there was lightning, rain, and was generally not a good time to be on open water. This wasn’t an uncommon storm so be cautious of the weather.
Cliff Dwellers: On the way from the Lee’s Ferry Lodge to the Cliff Dweller’s restaurant, there is a little pull off with the Cliff Dweller’s Stone House – and around this house are all of these giant rocks perched on tiny rocks. It was so interesting but we couldn’t find any explanation as to why these rocks are this way. If anyone knows, leave me a comment!
Overall, paddling Horseshoe Bend is an amazing and enjoyable experience. As you float along and look up at the 1,000 foot red sandstone cliffs, and listen to the sounds of the river – the flowing water, the birds, you can’t help but be in awe of the landscape around you. And as a group of 4 women, we felt completely safe at all times. If you’d like to see a few videos and more candid content, I’ve got an Instagram highlight of the trip!
On this same trip, we also paddled into Antelope Canyon – that post is coming next!