There are basically two ways to see Antelope Canyon and I’ve done them both. The first way is to pay for a tour and the second way is to paddleboard or kayak into the canyon yourself. When I went a few years ago for the private tour we used Ken’s Tours – current website prices are $55 a person for a 1 hour tour – and I would definitely recommend it. This takes you to a protected part of Antelope Canyon and when you see photos of Antelope Canyon they are likely from this portion. For the private tour, you climb down a ladder underneath the ground – so it’s more enclosed. When you paddle in, you can still see the wavy stone, but you can also see the sky above you – and that’s what we’re talking about today.
Now, as far as paddling into the canyon, I’ve done this twice and the water levels were drastically different each time so the experience was a bit varied.
Either way, you’ll want to launch your board or kayak at the Antelope Point Launch Ramp. There is a separate boat launch, don’t turn there. Keep driving and you’ll see the ramp for non motorized vessels. Now, the first time I did this the water levels were so low that we had to hike down this VERY steep hill on the left hand side of the ramp to launch our boards. The second time the water levels were much higher and we were able to launch them right from the end of the ramp. If this is a concern for you, I’d check the water levels before you go. This is a quick video of what the launch ramp looks like (sorry for the pump noise):
For contrast, apologies for the terrible photo, but this is the hill we had to lug our boards up/down in 2021 when the water levels were very low-
Once you’re in the water you’re going to paddle to the left, and you’re going to paddle about a mile until you see the canyon entrance, also on the left. There will be a “no wake zone” buoy and you can’t miss it. The water on Lake Powell itself is usually pretty choppy and quite frankly it’s not an enjoyable paddle with all the boats zooming by you. If your paddleboard has a kayak paddle (dual sided) I’d highly recommend bringing it. However, once you get into the canyon the water becomes progressively calmer and calmer and it is very peaceful.
On our most recent trip, the water was so much higher that we were still paddling in an area where we had been walking the first time we went – so your experience may vary, but you’ll continue to paddle through the canyon until you reach the end – maybe another mile or so once you leave the lake itself – and you’ll see other paddleboards/kayaks posted up along the shore/rocks. If it’s a hot day, and you have an inflatable board, make sure it’s in the shade and/or at least partially in the water. The first time we went, someone that wasn’t with us had their board pop and our group had to paddle them back. Once your board is secured, you can hike back as far as you’d like. I’ve been in July and September and both times was fairly warm, so we hiked back about an hour and then turned around. You’ll want water shoes that can maneuver in sand and on rocks for this.
Theoretically you could hike back for hours, but each time we’ve done about an hour in (which means an hour back out) and then called it a day. I do think it’s important to note that I did this as a girls trip both times and I wouldn’t bring my kids on a trip like this until they’re older. Both for safety and sanity reasons, plus I don’t think they’d enjoy it much.
Lodging
Paddleboarding into Antelope Canyon is an all day affair and I’d recommend staying overnight at least one night, or two if you can swing it. If you’re also paddling Horseshoe Bend then you’ll definitely need 2 nights minimum (we did 3 nights). The best place to stay for Antelope Canyon specifically, is Page, AZ and there are tons of options for lodging by most major hotel chains. While we’ve stayed at a few different places, most recently we stayed at the brand new Hyatt Place Page/Lake Powell and it is incredibly nice for a Hyatt Place. It has a cute little lobby bar, free breakfast, and a fantastic view off the back. This is a Category 3 Hyatt and can be booked on points from as little as 9,000 points a night (off peak) up to 15,000 points a night (on peak). Our room had 2 queen beds plus a sofa bed so there was plenty of sleeping space too! We fit four in our room just fine.
Food
I’d recommend bringing a cooler and packing lots of snacks/water for the actual trip into the canyon – Uncrustables, chips, fruit, veggies, water and electrolyte packets are some of my go tos – I’ll link all my favorite paddleboarding supplies in the next post but definitely get a dry bag for anything you don’t want to get wet – extra clothes/phones/etc – and bring a small lunchbox cooler for your food/drinks. Once you’re inside the canyon, there are plenty of little corners/alcoves to “pull over” your board and take a lunch break on the water.
Once you’ve had your fill of hiking, it’s time to paddle back. You’ll head back the same way you came – and if you have enough time, you can take a refreshing swim once you get back to the shore before you load all your gear back up (highly recommend this btw).
After a long day on the water eating chips and PB&J, I don’t know about you but all I want is a nice hot dinner and maybe a margarita. El Tapatio is hands down my favorite place to eat in Page – every time I’ve been here the food has been hot, fresh, and delicious. It’s exactly what you want after a long day outside! If you like Mexican food, you will not be disappointed! I’m still drooling over this creamy sauce in the photo on the left.
All in all, paddleboarding into Antelope Canyon is completely doable as a girls trip (or a couples trip) and I would say it’s a must do if you’re even the slightest bit adventurous and enjoy exploring the great outdoors of Arizona. April/May or September/October is the perfect time to go, and when you see the red rock cliffs contrast the cool waters of Lake Powell, you won’t regret it. As for what’s next, on our most recent trip we met a couple girls who had recently paddled the Blue Ridge Reservoir and their photos were stunning, so maybe that will be our next trip!
This past weekend, a few friends and I did a little road trip from Phoenix up to Horseshoe Bend. It’s about a 4.5 hour drive from Phoenix, it’s completely doable in a long weekend, and the scenery will not disappoint.
We left Phoenix in the afternoon and arrived in Lees Ferry just before dark. We stayed at the Lee’s Ferry Lodge for 2 nights. Lee’s Ferry is about 45 minutes from Page and is a better location than Page specifically for paddling Horseshoe Bend because it’s only 10 minutes from the launch at Lee’s Ferry.
Lodging
There were 4 of us and due to reservations being limited, the first night we were in the Hopi House, and the second night we were in Room 11. The Hopi House was like a little apartment – 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms plus a living room and kitchen area. Plenty of space, but technically there were only 3 beds (2 beds and a futon) so one person in our group had to sleep on the couch. Room 11 was smaller (no kitchen or living area) but had 2 bedrooms with 2 beds in each and one bathroom. Both rooms worked out great for our group of four.
Paddleboarding Horseshoe Bend
To paddleboard or kayak Horseshoe Bend, you first need to hire a ferry to backhaul you up the Colorado River. You start at Lee’s Ferry and then can choose to go all the way up to the Glen Canyon Dam, which is 15 miles, or they can also drop you around the 10 mile mark. The company we used was Kayak Horseshoe Bend and our boat driver was fantastic. We arrived about an hour before our scheduled ferry to ensure we had enough time to blow up our boards, use the restroom, etc. Our driver loaded our boards for us and then pointed out all the landmarks, campsites, and fun things along the way. She also told us how to wave for help should we need it (wave 2 arms above your head) and informed us that they go up and down the river most of the day in case we were to need anything, which was honestly more support than we expected to have. Also the drivers are seasonal employees and greatly appreciate tips, FYI. To go all the way to Glen Canyon Dam it takes about 45 minutes. They’ll give you a look at the dam itself, and then drop you off on a teeny tiny little sandy area and you’ll begin your paddling from there.
It’s worth noting that the Colorado River is cold. The dam releases water from the bottom of Lake Powell, which doesn’t see a lot of sunlight and the temperature is between 46-54 degrees fahrenheit all year long. We were told that the water was actually a bit warmer than normal during our trip, and I can assure you it was still very cold. We were also told that the water had a lot more silt in it than usual – our ferry driver told us that the water is normally crystal clear – but it was cloudy for us. We were not expecting it to be clear so it wasn’t an issue but I think it would be disappointing if we had been expecting that.
The river normally flows about 3 miles per hour, and it seemed to be even a bit faster than that at times during our trip. We had reserved an 8:30am ferry and we were dropped off by the ferry, near the dam, just before 9:30am. If you’re a camper, there are a few public camp sites along the river that are first come first serve. You can pack in your gear and stop and spend the night if you choose. There are also a few hikes you can do at various points but since it was summer when we went (end of July), and still 100+ degrees, we didn’t do any of the hikes.
The one stop we did make was at the Petroglyphs. It’s right after you float under the actual Horseshoe Bend overlook (and if you look up you can see all the people at the top that look like G.I. Joe figures). I believe Horseshoe Bend is at mile 10, and the petroglyphs are at mile 9 (where you start at the dam is mile 15). Depending on your expectations, the petroglyphs can be a bit underwhelming. It’s a short walk to see them, and they are fairly small, but it is cool to know that you’re looking at something that is 2,000 to 5,000 years old. It is a protected site so please be respectful and leave no trace.
Our ferry driver had told us that there are 6 wild horses that frequent the river, and we were fortunate enough to see 3 of them along the way. You’ll find them closer to the end of the trip (around mile 2 we were told), but they might be kind of far away. I just love seeing wild horses – they’re so majestic and free. There are also sheep that you can sometimes see, but we didn’t. There are plenty of shaded spots to stop and have lunch on your board and you can’t beat the view of the towering 1,000 foot sandstone red cliffs. It’s absolutely stunning.
Safety
We were told there was a $150 fine for not wearing your life jacket while on your board. While I don’t know if this is true, the National Park Service did patrol by us once and they came pretty close, possibly checking for life vests. Either way it’s smart to wear one, safety first.
Be sure to bring more water than you need. The recommendation is 1 gallon of water per person – remember, this is still the desert.
Park Passes/Access
Access into Lee’s Ferry – you need both a National Park Pass (or pay $30 for a day pass), and a free day pass that you get from a little stand on your way in. There was no one there to check our National Park Pass but we left it on our dashboard along with the free day pass and a note and we had no issues.
Food
For food on the river, we packed lots of frozen water bottles, electrolyte packets, uncrustables and snacks like string cheese, hummus, carrots, chomps, etc.
After a long day of being outdoors, I don’t know about you but I want a hot and hearty meal for dinner. The night that we arrived we ate at Marble Canyon (that’s the name of the restaurant) and I would give it a 5/10. My burger was ok, but the fries were basically cold. Nothing to write home about but it will do in a pinch.
The second night, we drove a few miles in the other direction and ate at Cliff Dwellers. This meal was so much better, I’d give it an 8.5/10. The BLT on sourdough and the chicken tenders both got rave reviews. I ordered the patty melt and it was decent – the burger patty itself was flavorful and the french fries were fresh, hot and delicious. We also noticed as we were leaving that the restaurant was full and seemed to be both locals and tourists eating there. Would definitely eat there again.
A few other things to note:
Time Zones: The Navajo Nation around Page, AZ does observe daylight savings time but the rest of Arizona does not. This means that half the year, AZ is on Mountain time and the other half we are the same as Pacific time, but the Navajo Nation is always on Mountain time. If your phone is set to automatically adjust to the time zone you’re in, it can be confusing because it will flip flop back and forth. The way to fix it is to go into your iPhone settings (Settings > General > Date & Time) then set the Time Zone to Phoenix and turn off the “Set Automatically” function. If you have an Android you’ll have to Google it but this will ensure you stay on the correct time so you’re not late for your ferry or anything else. Just remember to turn it back on after you leave!
Weather: While on the river, right as we were approaching Mile 0 and getting out, a storm rolled in. It was about 2:30 and there was lightning, rain, and was generally not a good time to be on open water. This wasn’t an uncommon storm so be cautious of the weather.
Cliff Dwellers: On the way from the Lee’s Ferry Lodge to the Cliff Dweller’s restaurant, there is a little pull off with the Cliff Dweller’s Stone House – and around this house are all of these giant rocks perched on tiny rocks. It was so interesting but we couldn’t find any explanation as to why these rocks are this way. If anyone knows, leave me a comment!
Overall, paddling Horseshoe Bend is an amazing and enjoyable experience. As you float along and look up at the 1,000 foot red sandstone cliffs, and listen to the sounds of the river – the flowing water, the birds, you can’t help but be in awe of the landscape around you. And as a group of 4 women, we felt completely safe at all times. If you’d like to see a few videos and more candid content, I’ve got an Instagram highlight of the trip!
On this same trip, we also paddled into Antelope Canyon – that post is coming next!